

Mermaiding in Portovenere A Different Way to Experience the Sea
Not all sea experiences happen on a boat. Some begin in the water.
Separated from Portovenere by just a few hundred metres of sea,
Palmaria is the largest of the three islands in the Gulf of Poets (alongside Tino and Tinetto) and, like the village itself, is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site covering Portovenere, the Cinque Terre and the islands.
From Portovenere, the island is just a few minutes away by ferry. Two main services operate the route:
The island is criss-crossed by a network of well-marked hiking trails that let you explore almost all of it on foot in just a few hours.
The paths wind through Mediterranean scrubland, past old quarries that once produced portoro marble — a prized black marble veined with gold,
extracted here for centuries — and 19th-century military fortifications, some abandoned, others partly restored.
From the highest points, the view stretches from the Cinque Terre all the way to Versilia on clear days.
A full loop of the island takes roughly 3-4 hours of walking, with moderate elevation changes: sturdy hiking shoes, plenty of water, and an early start in summer are all recommended, since most of the trail offers little shade.
On the island’s cliffs, reachable only by sea (traditionally by rowing boat), lies the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra), where light reflecting on the water creates an almost surreal effect. It’s one of the most striking sea excursions to pair with a day on Palmaria.
The most accessible beach is Secco, reachable both by ferry and on foot via a scenic path, with smooth pebbles that make it ideal for snorkelling.
Further along the coast lie wilder coves such as Cala del Pozzale, home to a small seasonal bar-restaurant, and Cala della Fornace, sheltered by a rock face and known for its turquoise water.
The inlets of Cala dell’Ammiraglio, Cala Piccola and Cala Grande are reachable only by sea, and remain among the most unspoiled corners of the gulf. For a full rundown of the beaches around Portovenere and Palmaria, including how to reach each one, see our dedicated guide.
If you only have a few hours, a quick crossing to Secco beach, with its view back towards Portovenere from the water, is well worth it. With a full day, you can instead walk the island’s main trails, stop at one of its more secluded coves, and head back to Portovenere in the late afternoon — perhaps in time for a sunset aperitivo on the harbourfront.
Since there are no proper towns on the island, dining options are limited: it’s worth bringing water and snacks, especially outside the summer months, when some seasonal venues are closed.
Palmaria is the natural complement to a visit to Portovenere: just a few minutes by ferry take you from the village’s medieval alleys to wild trails and coves that feel untouched by time. In 2026, it remains one of the most authentic experiences the Gulf of Poets has to offer.
If you feel that Portovenere reflects the kind of experience you are seeking, there is a way to truly live it.
Days at sea around Palmaria, sunsets over the water, places chosen with care.

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