The Best Beaches in Portovenere and on Palmaria Island

The sea around Portovenere is among the clearest in Liguria, thanks to the absence of large towns along this stretch of coast and its location within the Cinque Terre Marine Protected Area, which extends into these waters.

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The Bay at the Village Entrance

Right at the entrance to Portovenere, a pebbly bay opens up with shallow, clear water, well suited to families with children. Here you’ll find both a free stretch of beach and equipped beach clubs, such as the Royal Sporting Club and Arenella, offering sunbeds, umbrellas and bar service.

The Harbour

Along the harbourfront, among the coloured houses and moored boats, small rocky outcrops offer spots to sunbathe and dive into deep water: more of an informal gathering point for anyone staying in the village than a proper beach.

Beaches on Palmaria Island

A short ferry ride from the Molo Doria pier, Palmaria island holds some of the loveliest coves in the Gulf of Poets.

Secco Beach

The island’s main beach, with smooth pebbles and a few emerging rocks that make for varied, interesting snorkelling. It’s easily reached by public ferry or on foot along a scenic path.

Cala del Pozzale

On the island’s south-eastern coast, this cove offers a breathtaking view over the open sea and Punta Bianca. It can be reached by boat or via a steep trail; in summer, a small bar-restaurant offers refreshments to visitors.

Cala della Fornace (La Maiella)

Tucked beneath a rock face that partly shelters it from the sun, this cove stands out for its turquoise water and lush surrounding vegetation. It’s accessible only by sea.

The Boat-Only Coves

Cala dell’Ammiraglio, Cala Piccola and Cala Grande round out Palmaria’s offering: small corners of paradise that stay quiet precisely because they can only be reached by boat, whether rented or arranged through the local boatmen’s cooperatives.

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Around Byron's Grotto

The rocks around Byron’s Grotto, at the foot of the Church of St. Peter, offer another striking spot for a swim, among rocks and natural inlets, ideal for those who want a dip with a view of the castle.

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Practical Tips

The Cooperativa Barcaioli Portovenere runs a year-round ferry service to Palmaria from the Molo Doria pier, with departures roughly every 30 minutes from around 9:00 am to 6:45 pm (extended until midnight in July and August). From June to September, the seasonal Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti service also operates.

If you want to avoid the summer crowds, aim for early morning or late afternoon, when the light is best for photos and the beaches are quieter. Keep in mind that several of the island’s coves have no facilities (no bar, no restrooms, no umbrella rental): for a more organised day out, Secco beach remains the most convenient choice.

Which Beach Is Right for You?

  • With children or if you’re new to open water: the village bay.
  • For a scenic swim close to the centre: the area around Byron’s Grotto.
  • For calmer, wilder water: Palmaria’s coves, especially Cala della Fornace.
  • If you have (or plan to rent) a boat: Cala dell’Ammiraglio and Cala Grande.

Whichever beach you choose, the combination of crystal-clear water and views of the UNESCO-listed village makes every swim in Portovenere a memorable experience.

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Experience Portovenere, Beyond the Journey

If you feel that Portovenere reflects the kind of experience you are seeking, there is a way to truly live it.
Days at sea around Palmaria, sunsets over the water, places chosen with care.